Conservation Dyeing

Conservation dyeing to produce overlay and support fabric for a 19th century Japanese Noh robe (1931-4-62), including color matching through adjusting dye recipes. The robe was made of silk with gilded paper.

Silk habotai was dyed with Lanaset dye for a support fabric for splitting shoulder seams, to prevent further deterioration and to stabilize the area for future display. Silk crêpeline was dyed as an overlay fabric to prevent further damages in areas with abrasion.

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Dye calculations to determine the final color. A 50:1 liquor ratio was used.

Initial dyeing (left photo) produced colors that were too bright and not complex enough to match the aged textile.

The second round of dyeing (right photo) produced deeper, more nuanced colors.

Red 13.2 at a 2% depth of shade was used for the overlay fabric choice and Red 13.25 at 2.5% depth of shade was used for the underlay support.

Noh theatrical robe, ca. 1800, Japan. Terracotta silk twill brocaded heavily in colored silks and gilded paper with a design of chrysanthemums and five-petal flowers. Lined with solid terracotta silk. Gift of Eleanor and Sarah Hewitt, from the textile collection of Mrs. Abram Stevens Hewitt. The Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum, 1931-4-62.

KATHERINE SHARK

Conservation Dyeing